Four tips for experienced surfers
Entering a wave
A wave begins with the first stroke of the oar!
The SAP train:
• Sheathing
• Amplitude
• Placement
Sheathing: make your body a block. Both feet are touching. Tighten the buttocks. Straighten the torso.
Amplitude: fetch water far ahead. Attack the water with your thumb. Bend the elbow away from the rail of the board. Bring the water back to the level of the basin. Finish the movement by accelerating along the rail.
Placement: anticipate the breaking of the wave. Fast wave = rowing direction.
A sufficiently early recovery allows for comfortable timing.
This time saving can allow:
• Replacement of the feet on the board after the take-off.
• The search for good support under the feet (crushing the feet on the board).
• The compression of the rail in the first upper third of the wave in order to generate a first gain of speed. This compression must be associated with the moment of recovery.
Surfing with Flow
The surfer alternates phases of relaxation with tonic phases.
An efficient reference position must be adopted during these release phases:
• Rear knee flexed towards the front of the board.
• Line of the shoulders between 30° and 45° in relation to the batten of the board.
• The arms should be placed in front of the line of the shoulders. The hands are in the peripheral field of vision.
• Breathing should be ample and punctuated by gestures.
Breathing
Breathing is a fundamental aspect of this practice. It starts with good ventilation when paddling. An expiration during the last rowing strokes before the recovery. An inspiration during this one. Exhalation during phases where skill, power and balance are required (maneuvers, turns, ducks). Pay attention to the exhalations because the inspirations come naturally.
At work!